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Guy Diamond, Time out
Denmark-born Christoffer Hruskova is one [such] talent to emerge from Scandinavia. His North Road restaurant is understated, elegant, sophisticated. ... Service is smooth, the atmosphere grown-up.
But what makes North Road particularly Nordic, or even 'New Nordic'? Not the ingredients, which are nearly all British, highly seasonal, and top quality. It's the absence of French influence that marks this Modern European menu as something quite different.
New Nordic Cuisine is very much about the things you don't do to the food. Sauces are not heavily reduced, butter is virtually absent, cream is used only in some desserts. Meats are not slow-braised.
The aim is to reduce the amount of 'cooking' done, 'cooking' meaning heat; it's about the supremacy of ingredients over technique. Dishes are lighter and healthier than their French equivalents.
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AA Gill, The Times Style Magazine, Table Talk
It is a modest but beautifully designed restaurant opposite St John, and as such might be seen to represent the border between Fergus Henderson’s Saxon Wessex and the Noma-inspired Danish Mercia.
… Though the ingredients are British, the spectrum of flavour and texture is definitely from further north. Every plate has a gossamer lace of complementary essences and savours that are earthy and elemental, that hover on the edge of being unpleasant, decomposed, must and ash. But they’re always pulled back by being intriguing.